This minerally Champagne is clean-cut and spicy. A fine aperitif, with a lacy texture, lightly juicy acidity and well-knit flavors of poached pear, pickled ginger, currant and lemon curd. Creamy finish. Drink now through 2021.

(roughly 50% Pinot Noir, 35% Pinot Meunier and 15% Chardonnay; 9 g/l dosage; LAIBG): Light, bright yellow. Musky pear and toasty lees on the nose and in the mouth. Fleshy and open-knit, with a hint of bitter lemon pith adding back-end cut. Finishes on a gently smoky note, with very good cling and focus and a hint of bitter quinine. This must be the best example of this bottling that I've had in years, if not decades. In the past the Imperial Brut received a dosage of 12 g/l, but no more; in fact, there's talk that in the near future it may be dropped down as far as 7 g/l.

Well balanced, this Champagne, even with its enormous production, remains a benchmark and is always enjoyable. In this bottling, ripe white fruit is cut with citrus, with an edge of toastiness that gives complexity. Drink now.